I was really starting to lose it.
I hadn’t exercised in weeks. How could I? There hadn’t been any goddamn waves in town in a month! I was getting edgy. Drinking a lot. Gaining weight. Jacking off like a teenager. I needed to physically exercise my demons. You might say “try jogging,” or “perhaps tennis would help,” but if you did, you’d be an idiot. You just wouldn’t know me.
But then it came!
The full moon hit yesterday, on a clear night, and waves came to Second Beach in Middletown, RI. The swell didn’t hit until late. There were less than a dozen people in the water. Clearly word hadn’t spread that yet another drought had ended.
Last night was the first evening session that didn’t end with the sunset. Part of the reason is a new 4-3 wetsuit I have, and another part was the celestial lighting. The moon melted the waves into silver and gems. The stream of moonlight flicked like a mermaids tail, seducing me while I waited for a ride. On top of it all, I’ve never surfed better in my life. And I’m going to do the same thing, sans full moon, tonight.
The experience wasn’t quite spiritual, but I definitely am glad to live in Newport again.
